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Fishing boats tied up in Dutch Harbor. |
Trip Report » Unexplored, Unbelievable, Unalaska
Originally published in Outdoor Photographer magazine, February 2006.
Where in the world? Find it on Google Maps
Location
Start with a lush volcanic island on the edge of the Bering Sea… Add a dash of red foxes, a sprinkling of bald eagles, and a healthy helping of emerald hillsides, and you can begin to picture the natural beauty of the Aleutian Island of Unalaska.
The name Unalaska comes from the native Aleut word Ounalashka, which means “where the sea breaks its back.” The island lies at the heart of the 1,100-mile long Aleutian island chain, which separates the Pacific Ocean from the Bering Sea. This arc of more than 200 islands forms the northern border of the Pacific “Ring of Fire.” Forty-six active volcanoes make the Aleutians one of the most geologically active places in the world.
A short two-hour flight from the Anchorage airport transports you to this tundra-carpeted isle. The neighboring fishing villages of Dutch Harbor and Unalaska occupy only a tiny portion of the island's 80 square miles—the rest is trackless wilderness.
Weather
The ocean moderates Unalaska's climate. The average temperature ranges from 31 degrees in February to 56 degrees in August. At any time of the year, storms can sweep in unexpectedly and unleash drenching rains. A waterproof jacket and pants, plus adequate protection for your photographic gear, are required for any excursion. Don't assume that a clear morning will stay that way—the weather changes very quickly and without warning.
Most visitors come in the summer to take advantage of long days and the best chance for clear skies. Traveling in the off-season can be challenging. Frequent storms and fog can erase those sweeping views and create long flight delays.
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Waves wash on volcanic beaches. |
Photo Experience
Exploring this island frontier is easy—just shoulder your tripod and start walking. You don't even have to leave the coastal villages to see the island's most photogenic subject. Unalaska Island boasts one of the largest concentrations of bald eagles in the world. On some days, it seems like every lamppost and traffic sign has its own eagle warden. Since the island is treeless, the eagles build nests right on the cliff faces. Climb nearby Mount Ballyhoo and Bunker Hill to see their nesting areas and million-dollar views of the towns and glacier-capped volcanoes.
My favorite spot on the coast lies a few miles down the road from Unalaska town. Summer's Bay is an idyllic spot where fern-carpeted hills meet a black sand beach. The eerie “quork quork” call of ravens and the crashing waves will be your constant companions. Hike down the beach to photograph Steller's sea lions, whiskered auklets, and tufted puffins.
While it's possible to spend an entire trip focused on the island's rich coastal environment, don't overlook the luxuriant inland valleys. The Unadaga Bay Trail leads you into the island's interior. Here you'll pass a deep gorge with unnamed waterfalls spilling into the greenest valley you've ever seen. There are no trees or power lines to obscure your views, and you can leave the bear bells behind; Unalaska Island's largest mammals are red foxes and wild horses.
Lens choices will depend largely on your style of photography. Wildlife shooters should pack their 300mm and longer telephotos for frame-filling shots of seabirds and foxes. The wide-open valleys beg for panoramics. Macro enthusiasts will delight in the tiny tundra flora.
Best of all, you'll be the only one there. Since 90% of the island is pristine wilderness, it's easy to leave civilization behind. For photographers seeking nature's grandeur on the path less traveled, Unalaska Island is paradise.
Essential gear
Ewa-Marine Hurricane rain cape ($89 or $160 depending on lens filter size). This cover will allow you to keep shooting no matter what the weather throws at you.
Best Times
The long days of summer are the best times for photography in Unalaska. With an average of 16 hours of daylight, you may soon be wishing you had brought more film or flash memory. The end of August brings another special photographic treasure: the return of the salmon. There's nothing better than lying on the spongy tundra grasses watching juvenile bald eagles fight over a salmon lunch. And if you get hungry, just pluck a handful of blueberries or raspberries off a nearby bush.
Resources
Unalaska Visitors Bureau; Ounalashka Corporation land use permits.
