 |
 |
Hooker's sea lions spar at Surat Bay. |
Trip Report » The Catlins, New Zealand
Where in the world? Find it on Google Maps
Location
The sights of New Zealand's South Island are frequently garnished with superlatives. You'll hear "amazing," "spectacular," and "breath-taking"--sometimes in one sentence--describing the waterfalls of Milford Sound, the beaches of Abel Tasman, or the adrenaline adventures of Queenstown. But one place you're not likely to hear about is the Catlins.
Tucked away in the southeastern corner of the South Island, you'll find an unassuming patch of native forest nestling up against the wind-whipped waters of the Foveaux Strait. The Catlins region officially begins at Waipapa Point in the west and stretches to The Nuggets in the east. You won't find snow-shrouded peaks or glaciers oozing to the sea here; the beauty is more subtle. This is a place where you can sometimes find yourself sharing a lonely strip of smooth, pale sand with only a handful of sea lions.
Weather
New Zealand's climate is dominated by the ocean. Persistent westerly winds blowing over the Tasman Sea bring wet weather to the western slopes of the South Island's mountains. On the eastern side, where the Catlins are located, it is noticeably drier. The temperature is moderated by the nearby South Pacific and ranges from freezing in the winter to the 70s F in the summer. As the region lies on the southern tip of the South Island, the area is particularly exposed to southerly winds. Storms blowing in from the ocean will bring fierce winds and driving rain. They will also whip up some impressive waves, so keep your camera handy when it gets nasty outside.
 |
|
The hike from Jack's Beach takes you past some photogenic overlooks. |
Photo Experience
While unpacking my bags at the Surat Bay Lodge, I was amazed to see New Zealand (also known as Hooker's) sea lions sparring a hundred yards down the beach. For someone who grew up in Wisconsin, it was quite an experience to have these massive brutes snorting and barking on your doorstep. And there is more to the story--New Zealand sea lions are listed as a vulnerable species by the World Conservation Union. A disease outbreak in 1998 wiped out 20% of the adult females and 50% of the pups; the population has been slow to recover. Surat Bay is one of their hangouts (try Cannibal Bay if you don't see them here)--a place to see them hauled out on the beach snoozing away or battling for courtship and dominance (and scaring the wits out of tourists). Another endangered species, the yellow-eyed penguin, can also be found in the Catlins. These shy little birds are best observed at dawn and dusk when coming to and from their nests. Please stick to the designated areas when photographing these birds as they are very skittish.
Dramatic seascapes can be found at The Nuggets, a collection of sea stacks which can be photographed from a single winding trail high above the sea. The ideal time to photograph here is at sunrise or sunset, when the light bathes the rocks with golden sidelight. More sea stacks can be found at Cannibal Bay and Tautuku Beach. Other photogenic beaches in the Catlins include Cathedral Caves (only accessible at low tide) and Jack's Bay.
If the day dawns gray and misty, head inland. Some of New Zealand's most photogenic waterfalls are found here, hidden at the end of fern-draped tracks. McLean, Purakaunui, and Matai Falls are all recommended. As you wander through the tunnels of green foliage, try to identify some of New Zealand's native podocarp trees like the rimu, miro, kahikatea, or totara.
|
 |
Purakaunui Falls. |
Essential gear
Unfortunately, being off the beaten track means that you will need a rental car to get around. For photography gear, you will find a wide range of lenses to be useful, from wide-angle (for sweeping scenics) to super-telephoto (for sea lions and penguins).
Best Times
While there is no bad time to visit the Catlins, you will see the most wildlife and blooming flowers during the summer months of December-March. If you're looking for yellow-eyed penguins then avoid March and April, when the penguins are molting and do not leave their nests.
Resources
Catlins-NZ.com website, Catlins.org website, Surat Bay Lodge
